They say you either love or hate the city of Varanasi. For us it was a little bit of both. While We were excited to go there, it was a challenge once we got there and both of us were glad to leave after two days. However, as we were reflecting on our time in India and the different cities we've been to, Varanasi was a highlight for us. We wouldn't have traded it for any other city.
We experienced all the things-ugly and the beautiful- that India is known for but in high intensity and density. The ugly- crowded streets, cows and monkeys around every corner, streets filled with poop, urine, food scraps, red spit (from all the men who chew a tobacco like leaf), constant honking and hounding by guides and rickshaw drivers. But. being one of the holiest cities for Hindus in the world it is filled with beautiful massive rituals and spirituality and history going back 6000 years (crazy!). incense, temples, hundreds of people who come to bathe in the Ganges or to die or to mourn a death, corpses are carried through the streets by special men praying, families soak their loved ones on the waters of the Ganges and they are cremated on the shores- the most auspicious place for any Hindu to die and be cremated. Every morning hundreds gather on the shores and on boats just off the shore to watch the evening "aarti" paying respect to god and the Ganges.
The locals know and locate places in Varanasi depending on which of 84 ghats something is in. A ghat is an area of steps leading down to the river. We were told that many ghats were built by rulers or emperors. This page has some pictures of some of the impressive palaces that can be seen along the ghats. Some are run down or abandoned, and some have been turned into pricey hotels. The area closest to the ghats and the river are considered the old city and only accessible on foot due to the narrow alleys.
We were close to the Dasaswamedh ghat which is where the "mega" aarti is performed every night. I say "mega" because it is not just one person performing the ritual, there are 7. There are not just a few neat rows of people watching, there are crowds sitting on the shoreline steps and on boats on the river pulled up close to shore. The seven priests are surrounded. We paid a few rupees to sit up on a balcony in front of the ceremony which was a good choice because otherwise we would have been constantly pestered by people wanting to sell or explain something to us for a tip. We saw a thick crowd in all directions. We were told in the high season there are even more people- we could not imagine more people!
Directly below us there was a family of 30 or so with their heads completely shaved- men and women. We were told it is part of the mourning ritual. We saw the aarti priests raise different elements (fire, flower, water, fans-representing space and movement) representing all of creation and wave them in a circular motion in four directions. From what I understand, this ritual signifies the offering of ourselves and all creation to god. Bells are rung throughout the whole thing. Music and singing and drum beating accompanies the whole ceremony. We will never forget this hour of our lives!
The Manikarnika ghat is the major cremation ghat. Known as being a place where god in the earthly forms of Shiva and Vishnu walked and lived, it is the place to be cremated if you are hindu because it means the cycle of reincarnation will be broken for you.
We saw it for the first time when we took a 5am cruise on the Ganges- one of the "must do" things in Varanasi. What I noticed first were the mounds - like two story high mounds- of fire wood. Our guide explained that there are different types of wood that is shipped in and unloaded at that ghat. Families pay for how much they can when their loved one is being cremated.
After the boat ride, we walked across twice, but as quickly as possible because it feels weird to stop and spend too much time there. We didn't want to intrude on such an intimate space for so many people plus it is very dirty and filled with cow poop and garbage like most of the city is and men are close by wanting to give explanations for a fee or wanting to show you the buildings where people foot wait to die so they can ask for charity donation. Photography is strictly prohibited- as it should be- but These pictures from National Geographic document the space pretty incredibly.
While at least 100 bodies are cremated there a day, much joy and families partying and picnicking occurs very close by. Local kids lean how to swim in the river, people do their laundry there, many just hang out swimming laughing and having a good time.
The Assi ghat is one of the largest ones at the very end of town with several nicer hotels. They also had a aarti ceremony and we could get closer the priests performing the rites. We also set float a little tub of flowers and a candle saying a prayer like the locals were doing.
It was hard to know where to eat. We could only see street food or hole in the wall places with really dirty looking conditions. We relied more on Lonely Planets suggestions for restaurants in Varanasi than in any other city we have been to in the world. Lonely planet did not let us down with the Blue Lassi shop. It said it would be the best lassi we have ever tasted and it was. We went a total of four times and tried mango, mango apple, papaya coconut, and the mango coconut chocolate.
We did eat twice at Jyotis cafe which was right near our guesthouse in a small alleyway.
One morning while having breakfast there, we saw at least four people spit right in front of us (Mmm! Bon appetite!). one monkey swing by, and three cows pass by. One cow stopped in front if the cafe, just like a dog or cat asking for their daily ration. Jyoti brought out some food scraps and we witnessed a beautiful moment between him and the cow. He touched it on the forehead as we saw many people do with all the cows and he just lingered there with the cow made some gestures to his heart and head and clapped his hands in the prayer-making position. Not only are cows believed to be the god Shiva, someone told us that feeding a cow once a day brings good luck.
I personally felt more fear than awe of them. Especially when one with big horns were blocking a small alleyway you wanted to walk through. One time while Julio was trying to get money out of an ATM, a big black cow with horns approached The rickshaw driver and me, very slowly and casually. The driver patted it and smiled, looked at me and said "good, very good." Once it walked by us and was out of earshot the driver turned very serious and pointing to the cow, warned me: "very very dangerous."
Varanasi- we loved it, we were grossed out by it, we were mesmerized, we had our thoughts provoked, we were surprised and challenged, we thought we were going to die of heat. More than being a place you want to spend a lot o time at, for the short time you are there, you must let Varanasi's intensity engulf and happen to you. You probably won't have a coherent thought while you are going theough it, but looking back you realize the power of what you experienced and the place that is VARANASI.
We experienced all the things-ugly and the beautiful- that India is known for but in high intensity and density. The ugly- crowded streets, cows and monkeys around every corner, streets filled with poop, urine, food scraps, red spit (from all the men who chew a tobacco like leaf), constant honking and hounding by guides and rickshaw drivers. But. being one of the holiest cities for Hindus in the world it is filled with beautiful massive rituals and spirituality and history going back 6000 years (crazy!). incense, temples, hundreds of people who come to bathe in the Ganges or to die or to mourn a death, corpses are carried through the streets by special men praying, families soak their loved ones on the waters of the Ganges and they are cremated on the shores- the most auspicious place for any Hindu to die and be cremated. Every morning hundreds gather on the shores and on boats just off the shore to watch the evening "aarti" paying respect to god and the Ganges.
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| We stayed at the marigold guesthouse, steps away from the Munshi ghat. Julio with the Munshi ghat in the background. |
Directly below us there was a family of 30 or so with their heads completely shaved- men and women. We were told it is part of the mourning ritual. We saw the aarti priests raise different elements (fire, flower, water, fans-representing space and movement) representing all of creation and wave them in a circular motion in four directions. From what I understand, this ritual signifies the offering of ourselves and all creation to god. Bells are rung throughout the whole thing. Music and singing and drum beating accompanies the whole ceremony. We will never forget this hour of our lives!
The Manikarnika ghat is the major cremation ghat. Known as being a place where god in the earthly forms of Shiva and Vishnu walked and lived, it is the place to be cremated if you are hindu because it means the cycle of reincarnation will be broken for you.
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| Photography is prohibited on shore, but our boat guide told us we could take pictures from a distance on the boat. |
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| Our boat rower/guide we contracted through our guesthouse. |
While at least 100 bodies are cremated there a day, much joy and families partying and picnicking occurs very close by. Local kids lean how to swim in the river, people do their laundry there, many just hang out swimming laughing and having a good time.
The Assi ghat is one of the largest ones at the very end of town with several nicer hotels. They also had a aarti ceremony and we could get closer the priests performing the rites. We also set float a little tub of flowers and a candle saying a prayer like the locals were doing.
It was hard to know where to eat. We could only see street food or hole in the wall places with really dirty looking conditions. We relied more on Lonely Planets suggestions for restaurants in Varanasi than in any other city we have been to in the world. Lonely planet did not let us down with the Blue Lassi shop. It said it would be the best lassi we have ever tasted and it was. We went a total of four times and tried mango, mango apple, papaya coconut, and the mango coconut chocolate.
We did eat twice at Jyotis cafe which was right near our guesthouse in a small alleyway.
 |
| Julio eating potato pakota- like hash browns- at Jyoti's cafe. |
One morning while having breakfast there, we saw at least four people spit right in front of us (Mmm! Bon appetite!). one monkey swing by, and three cows pass by. One cow stopped in front if the cafe, just like a dog or cat asking for their daily ration. Jyoti brought out some food scraps and we witnessed a beautiful moment between him and the cow. He touched it on the forehead as we saw many people do with all the cows and he just lingered there with the cow made some gestures to his heart and head and clapped his hands in the prayer-making position. Not only are cows believed to be the god Shiva, someone told us that feeding a cow once a day brings good luck.
Varanasi- we loved it, we were grossed out by it, we were mesmerized, we had our thoughts provoked, we were surprised and challenged, we thought we were going to die of heat. More than being a place you want to spend a lot o time at, for the short time you are there, you must let Varanasi's intensity engulf and happen to you. You probably won't have a coherent thought while you are going theough it, but looking back you realize the power of what you experienced and the place that is VARANASI.
Rich ...
ReplyDeleteBeautifully written, Bethany.